Garden Chores for September
How many of us gave up and ignored the garden in August, the heat driving us indoors? Raise your hand if that’s you. It was definitely me. It was too dang hot, and the perennial beds were one big, complicated mess. I opted to let the plants fend for themselves. As I look forward to the cooler days and nights of September, I’m sort of regretting that decision—-the weeds took over. So, chore number one on the September garden chores list is weeds. Take a quick stroll through your garden and check the weeds. Test yourself too, and see if you can id them. Every gardener worth their weight in zucchini needs to know the competition. Learn your weeds.
Weeding aims to stop the weed seeds from spreading, and hopefully, lessen the weeds for next season.
- If there’s no time for pulling, use super sharp snipers and cut those flowering-soon-to-be-seeds off. This buys some time and helps reduce the spread. Remember, one year’s seed is seven year’s weed.
- Weed after a good rain. The weeds are easier to pull up, root and all.
- Avoid mucking around too much in wet soil, though. If you can reach across, instead of stepping on wet soil, do so. Rake up the soil when finished to reduce compaction and runoff.
- Do dispose of the weeds. Unless you’re a composting guru, it’s probably best to throw weeds out with the trash.
Compost needs to be hot to destroy the weed seeds. Turning up the temperature is as easy as turning the compost pile, but for the beginner, skip adding the weeds for now. You want your first go at composting to be successful. You don’t want to spread weeds into the garden directly from your compost bin next year.
Most of us live in small enough spaces that pulling weeds is recommended. It avoids the use of herbicides and gives the gardener a chance to observe the garden. Gravel or mulched pathways are the areas to use the herbicides when weeds take over if you must.
For spot places that need extra care, try layered cardboard or newspaper smothered in mulch, which is very effective. Weed the area first, water it well, then put down cardboard or newspaper and mulch. If you want to plant in that area, cut small x’s in the cardboard and continue to water the plants. Substantial perennials and shrubs work best.
- Now is the time to reseed bare places, aerate compacted places and add an inch layer of compost to the lawn.
- Suggested time to add a layer of compost: mid-September and again mid-October to early November.
- On the final mow, be sure to lower the mower blades to 3″ instead of 3.5″. Leave your lawn clippings unless you’ve had to wait too long to cut, and the grass clippings are matted down, then remove and compost.
- Consider adding clover to your lawn as it helps with nitrogen fixation, helps push out unwanted weeds, doesn’t get over 4-8″ tall and grows well with grass.
Cutting Back and Dividing Perennials
- Many perennials are starting to yellow, indicating it’s time to cut the leaves back and divide if necessary. Remove yellowing leaves now (hostas are a good place to start).
- Remove spent flowers, cutting back to plant level.
- Remember, too, that perennials benefit from division every 3-5 years, so examine what perennials are starting to bleed out in the middle (dianthus, phlox, shasta daisy) and divide and transplant for a healthier plant. It’s an inexpensive and easy way to grow your garden.
Perennial Tip: Spring-to-early-summer blooming perennials divide in fall, late summer-to-fall blooming perennials divide in spring.
Gardener’s Rule of Thumb: Divide when you have the time.
Landscape Tip: The longer you live in a landscape (unless you have no trees), the shadier it gets. Is it time to re-evaluate perennial beds? Which perennials are leggy and reaching for the sunlight? Or the opposite? Which ones are now getting fried from too much sun because a tree was removed? Or is the garden beautiful in spring but lacking in fall? If so, check out the selection of fall perennials: Anemones, sneezeweed, asters, false sunflower, grasses and more.
Peony Tip: Peonies prefer transplanting and dividing in September.
Pruning & Fertilizing
Do not prune shrubs or trees. You can continue to remove all dead/diseased/damaged/dying wood on shrubs and trees, which is where pests and diseases hang out. Pruning pushes out new growth that won’t have a chance to harden off before cold weather arrives, causing potential die-back. For this reason, skip the fertilizing now, too. July 31st is the final day for fertilizing your landscape plants.
Plant Trees and Shrub
September and October are good months to plant trees and shrubs. The soil temperature will stay warmer than the air temperature as night temperatures drop, forcing plants to focus on root growth over shoot growth. That’s a good thing since the goal is to have a good root system. Traditionally, we get more rain in the fall and early spring than in the summer, which is another good reason to plant now. That said, be sure to check the amount of rain you’re getting, and don’t assume you can skip watering. Establishing plants with consistent watering is key to healthy, drought-resistant plants in the future.
Plant Veggies, Swap out Containers, Plant Bulbs
Veggies: Plant greens now. Plant mustard, radish, mixed greens, turnips and more for a fall harvest.
Container Gardening: Spruce up your seasonal pots. It seems early for pansies and violas, but getting them in the soil now establishes good root systems for a beautiful fall show (that lasts well into the next growing season). Plant now, and if the pansies begin to get leggy, shear them very short (about 2″), which forces root development and creates a tighter plant. New growth will happen quickly, and they’ll be blooming again soon. Mix with annual mums, heirloom pumpkins and evergreens for a great fall display.
Bulbs: Decide on your bulbs and purchase now. Where does the spring garden need sprucing up? How many bulbs and which varieties are needed?
Information courtesy of BBBarns.com